Twentythree

Mr. Sato starts his urban exploration of Tokyo to catch a glimpse of local neighborhoods’ pasts before they’re changed forever.

There’s never a time when Tokyo isn’t changing. The city is so big and has so many people that there’s always some part of it that’s being renovated, redeveloped, or otherwise reimagined. Oftentimes those changes bring greater convenience and interesting new experiences, but at the same time, there’s also the sadness that comes with losing elements that were part of the cityscape for decades up until then.

That’s something that our ace reporter Mr. Sato has been thinking about a lot recently. A resident of western Tokyo, he lives not far from the Seibu Shinjuku Line, which is going thought some extensive renovation work, with stretches of track and stations being converted from above-ground to underground facilities. Having been part of a construction crew that did similar work in his hometown of Izumo, Mr. Sato knows how much the atmosphere of a neighborhood can change after such conversions, and it’s inspired him to search Tokyo for fading vestiges of the Showa era (1926-1989) in order to document and appreciate them while they still exist.

For today’s urban exploration expedition, Mr. Sato started at Baishoin Temple, also called Araiyakushi Baishoin Temple, in the vicinity of the Seibu Shinjuku Line’s Araiyakushi-mae Station. “Yakushi” means “healer,” and this temple, which was founded 440 years ago, is said to bestow blessings upon those suffering from eye ailments, and also to help ensure the health of growing children. In a more secular sense, it’s also a spot of beautiful traditional architecture, and if you time your visit for when the cherry blossoms are blooming in spring, the approach to the main gate is quite picturesque.

Baishoin isn’t the only local place for purported divine assistance either. There’s also a Shinto shrine, Arai Tenjin Kitano Shrine, right across the street, which is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, a ninth century scholar and poet who became deified as a god of learning and education.

The shrine’s grounds have lovely sakura trees of their own too, but not of the Somei Yoshino variety that makes up the majority of Japan’s cherry blossoms. Instead, these cherry blossoms are a kind called “Princess Miyabi” that blooms earlier and has a more pronounced pink color.

From the shrine, Mr. Sato made his way to Araiyakushi-mae Station, a walk that takes about eight minutes.

▼ Walking route from Baishoin Temple to Araiyakushi-mae Station via Arai Tenjin Kitano Shrine

Araiyakushi-mae is one of the stops on the Seibu Shinjuku Line that’s being converted to an underground station, and while it’s still operating above-ground for now, the prevalent partitions are a reminder that changes are coming.

As part of the switch to underground tracks along this part of the line, a multiple railroad crossings are going to be eliminated. This will no doubt help ease congestion, but it also means those moments of neighbors waiting side by side at the crossing gate, taking in the same scenery at the same time, will also come to an end.

The entire track between Araiyakushi-mae and Nuamabukuro, the next stop on the line, will be underground once the renovations are finished, so Mr. Sato hopped on the train and rode over to Numabukuro to get a look at the neighborhood.

This crossing will be gone too, which will also likely mean the removal of the charmingly retro maps posted on its fence.

This public bath, called Ichinoyu and located a block away from Numabukuro Station, is also a remnant of an a more old-fashioned way of life. While it’s not directly in the path of the renovation work, one can’t help wondering if it’ll eventually get swept away as part of a local redevelopment project, but for now it’s hanging on, as are the small, independent izakaya pubs on the nearby streets.

As he strolled about, Mr. Sato suddenly spotted a large torii gate marking the approach to Ooka Inari Daimoyijin.

Ironically, after he passed through the gate and followed the path, he found that this shrine, dedicated to Ukanomitama, a god of harvests and agriculture, is actually pretty small, but Mr. Sato sill stopped to say a prayer of silent thanks.

▼ Route from Numabukuro Station to Ichinoyu and Ooka Inari Daimoyijin

Now with food on his mind, Mr. Sato realized that he’d gotten really hungry, so it was time to look for lunch.

The good honest grub of Manpuku Kitchen and halal offerings of Rejaul, the establishments shown in the photo above, were both tempting, but unfortunately both of the places were closed at this late-afternoon hour, so Mr. Sato’s search continued, with more visual reminders of just how close the future was pushing its way into the past’s territory.

In time, he came across a Chinese restaurant called Tairiku, with its banner hanging across the doorway and signaling that they were still serving.

Stepping inside, Mr. Sato saw that the only people in the restaurant were the owner/chef and one elderly customer who appeared to be a regular. The two of them were entranced by a high school baseball game they were watching on the restaurant’s TV set, with the contest having just gone into extra innings. Mr. Sato put in his order for a bowl of tanmen ramen and a plate of gyoza (700 yen [US$4.50] and 400 yen, respectively), and as he ate, he found himself getting emotionally invested in the game too.

Both starting pitchers were still in the game, which was tied at 0-0. With every pitch, the other customer would let out an admiring “Oohh!”, and Mr. Sato unconsciously began to do the same, periodically looking down at his food to take a bite but then moving his eyes back up to the game.

The ramen and gyoza were delicious and filling, but just as enjoyable was this unexpected sense of unspoken comradery with the other people in the restaurant, and when the game ended with a 2-1 victory for the winning team, Mr. Sato felt like he’d had not just a great meal, but a uniquely comforting experience…which he then followed with another at a cafe called Nekomaru.

▼ Neko is the Japanese word for “cat,” so you can probably spot the cafe even if you don’t read Japanese.

▼ Route from Ooka Inari Daimoyijin Shrine to Tairiku to Nekomaru

This is a retro kissaten, a Japanese cafe in the style that was ubiquitous in the ‘60s and ‘70s, but which became less common as the Bubble Economy years went on. That means fewer flashy Instagram-baiting drinks and desserts, and a stronger focus on fundamentals, such as a really good cup of coffee for 480 yen.

After taking a few satisfying sips, Mr. Sato realized that this stylishly old-school atmosphere was having an influence on his mental state. Ordinarily, in idle moments like this he’d be quick to pull out his smartphone and start scrolling through social media. But with the sounds of the staff’s jazz selection flowing from the cafe’s speakers and a cup of high-quality coffee in his hand, Mr. Sato felt he had all the stimulation he needed, and without an excess of it either. It was tranquil but not tranquilizing, and the 15 minutes or so he spent in this throwback state of mind turned out to be far more satisfying than doomscrolling, and he’s going to keep Nekomaru in mind for the next time he finds himself in need of a mental detox of this sort.

After leaving the cafe, Mr. Sato started walking south, in the direction of Nakano Station, the closest train stop to his apartment. This brought him to the Myoshoji River, where a plaque posted on the bridge he crossed said that back in the Edo period, frogs caught along the river, which were caught to be used as food, were collected as tax payments by the Shogunate government.

On the south side of the river is Heiwa no Mori Park, a relaxing green space for locals on ground that used to be part of a prison.

And eventually, Nakano Station came into view.

▼ Route from Nekomaru to Heiwa no Mori Park to Nakano

Nakano Station has been going through some massive renovations of its own recently. The new building is much larger and more modern than its previous form was, and, to Mr. Sato’s eyes, looks like something that would blend right in with the more heavily urbanized environments of the Tokyo city center, with the redesign making it more convenient and commerce-friendly.

Similarly, Nakano Sun Plaza, a B-tier concert hall near Nakano Station that’s been the venue for performances by many beloved niche artists over the years, is in a state of limbo as it’s technically closed down, but demolition has been indefinitely delayed.

Mr. Sato isn’t completely opposed to the march of progress in Tokyo’s neighborhoods. However, understanding that such changes are inevitable, and in some cases even necessary, has hardened his resolve not to overlook those special places that are going to be fading away as newer, shinier stuff comes in, and he’s planning to expand his explorations to other parts of the city too, while there’s still time.

Photos ©SoraNews24
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Dom Dom turns over a new leaf.

Japanese fast food chain Dom Dom Burger has long been an innovator in the art of making burgers. Whether it’s putting whole crabs between two buns or including each of the colors of the Power Rangers in the toppings, they’ve never shied away from trying something new.

Now, they’re turning their attention to lettuce. Other chains, like Mos Burger, have come out with lettuce-heavy offerings, often substituting the buns for several leaves, but Dom Dom is going the other way with it, by stuffing a bun with as much lettuce as they can, and not much else.

Our writer Kouhey headed down to his nearest location to try one of these Almost All Lettuce Burgers out for himself for 690 yen (US$4.30). Even though it was basically just lettuce on a bun, it still took a few minutes after ordering for it to arrive.

After unwrapping it, our writer was blown away by the sheer amount of lettuce. He’d wager there was probably one-third of a head of it between those buns. Even after lifting up the top of the bun, all that could be seen was lettuce.

It took some digging around before Kouhey could find anything that wasn’t lettuce. There were five or six boiled shrimp and some sauce, but it didn’t amount to much this deep in a sea of lettuce.

There was also some mayo on the bottom bun. On the bright side, this was probably by far the healthiest burger Dom Dom has ever put out, if you could even call it a burger.

He cut it in half to get a good look at its ridiculous cross-section. He had to hand it to Dom Dom, even after all these years, they still know how to make a shocking burger.

Being shocking is all well and good, but if it still needs to deliver in the taste department. Kouhey prepared himself for a first bite.

And it was just lettuce. He couldn’t even get a significant piece of bun in that first bite and just tasted a mouthful of green leaves. As he got deeper, he eventually caught the slight taste of the bun, shrimp, and mayonnaise, but they were all constantly overwhelmed by the relentless presence of lettuce.

Whether that’s “good” or not really all boils down to how much you like lettuce, but it got our reporter thinking, and he immediately headed over to the cheap family restaurant Saizeriya.

They sell a boiled shrimp salad for 350 yen, so he thought he might be able to recreate his own take on an Almost All Lettuce Burger with it.

However, his plan was thwarted by a misleading menu. Although the Take Out symbol appeared on the menu, it was referring to the dressing rather than the salad itself, which was only available for those dining in.

After expressing his disappointment to the staff, they told him all he needed to do was order it at a table and then ask for a container to take it home in. So, that’s what he did.

He also picked up some buns on the way home and got to work constructing his own Saizeriya-filled lettuce burger.

Putting it next to an Almost All Lettuce Burger, it was clearly the more appetizing of the two, with various colors and other toppings to tempt the palate.

They were completely different when it came to taste as well. The Saizeriya lettuce burger had a more well-rounded flavor, with each bite providing the taste of lettuce along with a menagerie of other foods.

The Almost All Lettuce Burger, however, was almost all lettuce. But in a strange way, eating through the wall of bland lettuce made the flavor of the shrimp and sauce feel that much more exquisite, like getting a drop of water in a desert.

It’s certainly an interesting concept, but probably not one that would appeal to everyone equally.  If you’re not completely head over heels about lettuce, then the Saizeriya version might still be for you. Kouhey decided he’d try it again next time with the focaccia they sell there, too.

Photos ©SoraNews24
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Family Mart convenience stores are looking a little more like an Animal Crossing village these days.

Japan’s convenience stores aren’t just a great place to grab snacks or drinks. They’re also stocked with all sorts of sundry daily necessities. But while all of the major convenience store chains have cosmetics, Family Mart is the only one that has Animal Crossing cosmetics.

The collaboration kicked off March 31, with characters from Nintendo’s cozy life sim appearing on items from Japanese cosmetics company Mitea Organic, including the brand’s Serum Oil Lipstick (995 yen [US$6.40]), with six villagers appearing on different shades, such as Judy on the Strawberry Pink color.

Now you could just toss that lipstick into any old pouch if you’re going out, but the cuter option is the Animal Crossing leaf-shaped silicone lipstick case.

Sure, it’s already cute enough on its own as jangly bag strap accessory, what with the charm of tanuki twins Timmy and Tommy…

…but on the reverse side is a slot in which to secure a stick of lipstick, making this both cute and functional.

More familiar faces from the games, Dom, Stitches, Marshal, and Tom Nook himself, grace tubes and bottles of Aqua Serum Wash, Cleansing Serum Oil, Repair Milk, and Serum Lotion, a quartet of facial cleansers and moisturizing lotions with prices ranging from 1,188 to 1,991 yen.

And rounding things out is the “Mini Size Kit” (1,650 yen), a travel friendly pouch with compact containers of Cleansing Serum Oil and Repair Milk, so that Stitches and Marshal can come along on your next overnight trip.

Making the deal even sweeter for fans is that between April 7 and 20, if you buy two or more of the Animal Crossing Family Mart cosmetic items, you’ll get one of two tote bags as a bonus, while supplies last.

The lineup is on sale through Family Mart now, but though most of the items are available for ordinary purchase in store, the leaf lipstick case has to be ordered ahead of time online, with Family Mart offering it in a bundle with three sticks of lipstick for 5,186 yen here. Alternatively, the leaf case is listed through Mitea Cosmetic’s own Cosme Kitchen online store here, with one stick of lipstick, for 2,200 yen. Both of them currently say they’re sold out of cases, so we’ll have to keep our fingers crossed that they’ll decide to produce enough for a restock.

Photos ©SoraNews24
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Ji-chan and ba-chan are waiting for you at G-cha and Ba-cha.

Shibuya is one of Tokyo’s trendiest neighborhoods, so it makes sense that a new takeout tea cafe, with an inventive menu, pop aesthetic, and fashionable staff has just opened there. However, the people serving the drinks aren’t teens taking a year to find themselves before starting college, or young adults living a beatnik lifestyle. Instead, the customer service staff here is a group of Japanese grannies and grandpas.

G-cha and Ba-cha gets its name from some simultaneous plays on words, as ji-chan and ba-chan are ways of saying “grandpa” and “grandma” in Japanese, but their affectionate suffix of -chan sounds very similar to cha, the Japanese word for “tea.” The average age among the customer service staff at G-cha and Ba-cha (also called G&B, for short) is 73, and the oldest employee of the cafe is 80 years old.

The menu isn’t steeped in old-fashioned austerity, though. G-cha and Ba-cha puts a spin on traditional Japanese tea flavors, adding jasmine to its green tea and ginger to its hojicha (roasted green tea). Their matcha lattes can also be dressed up with the addition of salty caramel sauce, chocolate, or coffee, and if you’re looking for something sweet but not to drink, they have matcha ice cream too.

G-cha and Ba-cha has no dine-in space, but the stylishly playful aesthetics of their packages and cups help you take the shop’s atmosphere with you as part of your to-go order.

▼ The kanji characters for “energetic” and “healthy” decorate these takeout bags.

In deference to the staff’s ages, there are a few figurative wrinkles to how G-cha and Ba-cha operates. For one, the customer service staff takes orders and serves drinks while seated, a rarity in Japan, to lessen the strain on their knees, backs, and other joints, and there’s a flexible mid-shift break system in place as well. Customers fill out their orders on slips of paper instead of placing them verbally and payment in by cashless methods only, eliminating the need to memorize orders or work a cash register. And while the customer service staff are all in their senior years, there’s also a younger employee working the back of the cafe and making the drinks.

It’s all part of G-cha and Ba-cha’s desire to create a place where seniors can be active, productive, and connected to the society and the community in a way that’s fun but not a physical toil. It’s located just a two-minute walk from Shibuya Station, so it’s easy to fold a visit into your plans to see the Nintendo store, scramble intersection, or any of Shibuya’s other famous sights, though G-cha and Ba-cha does caution that service may be temporarily suspended if all of the staff decides to take a break at the same time.

Cafe information
G-cha and Ba-cha
Address: Tokyo-to, Shibuya-ku, Shibuya 1-12-24
東京都渋谷区渋谷1-12-24 707
Open 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

Source, images: PR Times
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