Forbidden area at Japanese mountaintop shrine opens to the public for first time in 400 years

Be one of the first outsiders in centuries to enter this secret sacred area.

Japan has an abundance of beautiful shrines, but if you’re looking to visit one that’s among the most sacred and revered, you’ll want to make a trip to Kunozan Toshogu Shrine in Shizuoka Prefecture.

This shrine recently received a boom in popularity after it was featured in the year-long historical taiga drama Dousuru Ieyasu (“What Will You Do, Ieyasu?“) which was broadcast on national television in 2023. The drama followed the story of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), the first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1603-1868. His rule brought an end to civil wars in Japan, ushering in a peaceful period where culture and society was able to flourish, making him an incredibly important figure in Japanese history.

The shogun’s story lives on at Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, as this is where where Tokugawa Ieyasu is enshrined, according to his wishes for a mausoleum atop Mount Kunozan. This connection to Japan’s first shogun has made the shrine popular with tourists over the centuries, but during the 400-plus years it’s existed, there’s been one area that’s always been off limits to the  public.

That’s about to change soon, though, as the shrine is opening the area to a limited number of people for three days only, and we were invited to view the secret site as part of a press tour prior to its special opening.

▼ Our guide was Yo Saito, who works at Kunozan Toshogu Shrine.

The forbidden area, previously only seen by priests at the shrine, is being opened to the public as part of a tie-up with Central Japan Railway (JR Tokai) to promote Mt Fuji and the Tokai region in and around Shizuoka Prefecture. On clear days you can enjoy spectacular views of Mt Fuji from Mount Kunozan, where the shrine is located, and the area being opened to the public covers the trail from the precincts to the summit. This lets you view Atago Shrine at the top of the mountain, and gives you tantalising glimpses of the remains of Kuno Castle, which predates the building of the shrine some 400 years ago. 

The approximately three-hour tour starts at the shrine, which is a national treasure, where participants will stop for private worship.

The shrine is a masterpiece of architecture from the Edo period (1603-1868) which everyone should see at least once in their lifetimes. The story behind the building itself is also incredibly interesting, with some parts of the interior purposely left as they were in a specific era so you can see how repairs were made over time.

Surprisingly, the stories told here by the priests are filled with information that isn’t available online. For example, the tatami mats with red edges (ungenberi) that are laid between these stones have a different structure from modern tatami mats, and because there are no longer any craftsmen who specialise in the craft, it’s impossible to ever recreate them.

Another interesting story involves the lacquering and repainting of the shrine, which takes place every 50 years. The last repaint was completed in 2006, which means it shouldn’t take place again until 2056, but Mr Saito revealed that the restoration work has already begun…30 years in advance.

▼ At this point, Mr Saito pulled out a wooden board to demonstrate why.

This board shows how the lacquer used in the shrine building is split up into over 30 layers, with the paint needing to be stripped back before the layers are applied to give the final result.

It’s an incredibly time-consuming task, and you can see the effects in some sections already, with the darker area below representing the new work and the lighter area being the part that needs redoing.

After praying and receiving spiritual training at the shrine, tour participants head towards the forbidden area from behind the building.

▼ This is the first time in 400 years for the forest area to be viewed by members of the public.

The trees on the mountain had remained untouched for 400 years, but some recently reached a point where they could pose a danger to buildings, so they were cut down as a safety measure.

Heading deeper into the forbidden area takes you into parts that are more overgrown, and we we were shown three valuable sites previously unknown to the public.

▼ One is this staircase, which was used by military commanders when the site was a castle.

▼ The second site of interest is this moat, which also belonged to Kuno Castle.

Most of the remains of Kuno Castle were lost due to construction of the Nihondaira Ropeway, so it’s thought that not much remains. However, the area on the west side from around the main shrine of Toshogu Shrine to the summit is untouched, so for this reason, the remains of the castle are still intact in some places. This gives you exciting glimpses into the past as you make your way up the mountain, with stone walls and trenches being irresistible sites of interest for castle enthusiasts.

This site has never been excavated, and with a history dating back to the 7th century, the chances of unearthed gems existing below ground are incredibly high.

▼ The third site of interest is the small torii gate at the top of these stairs, with an equally small shrine beyond it.

This shrine is said to be dedicated to Kuno Tadahito, who built Kunoji Temple during the reign of Emperor Suiko, before Kuno Castle was built. This mountain gets its name from Kuno Tadahito, and no member of the public will have ever seen this special shrine before now.

Another amazing discovery is the existence of so-called “Izu stones” used during the building of Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, which are difficult to obtain as they can no longer be mined. 

The history of the past, where the site changed from a castle to a shrine, is also evident in the trees, with some of them being completely wild, and others appearing to have been planted with regularity. The entire mountain is like an ancient ruin from the past, with interesting terrain and artefacts waiting to be discovered, but the final destination is the one that will really take your breath away.

▼ Atago Shrine, at the top of the mountain, is definitely one of the least visited shrines in all of Japan.

With the area being concealed from the public for roughly 400 years, nobody other than shrine priests were ever able to confirm its existence. It’s a breathtaking experience to view something so rare in Japan, and making it even more special is the fact that Kunozan Toshogu Shrine and Nikko Toshogu Shrine, which make up the two most famous shrines connected to the Tokugawa clan, sit in a straight line with Mt Fuji in the middle. 

Although you can’t view Mt Fuji directly from Kunozan Toshogu Shrine, the straight-line location connects it to the myth and legend of the mountain and the Tokugawa shogunate.

▼ Participants also receive a special Goshuin shrine stamp as a memento of the unique tour.

▼ The goshuin is beautifully made, and given to you before entering the forbidden area so you can imbue it with sacred energy.

The tour looks set to be an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, but you’ll have to be quick to take part, as it’s limited to only 20 people each day, at a cost of 7,000 yen (US$45.29) per person, and is only available on three dates: 14 December, 2024; 25 January, 2025; 2 March, 2025. For more information, check out the special campaign page, where you can make your bookings. If temples are more your thing, though, then you’ll love this hidden gem in Nara Prefecture.

Site information
Kunozan Toshogu Shrine / 会津さざえ堂
Address: Shizuoka-ken, Shizuoka-shi, Suruga-ku, Negoya 390
静岡市駿河区根古屋390
Hours: 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
Website

Photos © SoraNews24
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